As we sped our way towards Tarbes in the early morning light trying to find the right starting enclosure, the main thing on my mind was not the 90 miles of racing that lay ahead of us, nor the three huge mountain climbs, but the weather!

I had driven over Tourmalet a few days before, and had been greeted by fog and freezing temperatures. Not what you need for a descent of 4000 feet with initial gradients of 15%, with tight hairpin bends and sheer drops!

The start of the day had not been promising, with steady persistent rain - not ideal for an all day bike ride!

As we waited in our pens for starters orders, I met Norman who had somehow managed to get there earlier than me despite leaving the hotel later, and was in front of me in the pen. Chatter was in a wide range of languages, as there were about 1000 overseas entrants, which included several hundred from the UK.

As 6200 cyclists nervously whiled away the last few minutes before the 7:30 start, the rain eased off. We were ready to go! Ahead of us lay some forty miles of relatively flat terrain, with only a fourth category climb, before we hit the mountains. I was hoping to take full advantage of the huge pelotons, and to average about 18mph on the flat section. Going faster than that could be a mistake, as we had then had to face over 10,000 feet of climb ahead of us, much of which had gradients of around 10% or steeper.

Finally, a voice echoed over the loudspeakers … we were off! Well - not us exactly - the people at the front were! At number 3200, I had several minutes to wait before we started shuffling forwards to the starting arch. There was plenty of time to take a photo! We were electronically timed from the moment we crossed the starting line.

As the great host of cyclists set off with enthusiasm and trepidation, the temperature rose to 14 degrees, and the rain subsided to a light drizzle. Relatively ideal cycling conditions. No danger of overheating! I chatted to Norman for a while as we rode together, greeting members of British cycling clubs as I met them, identified by the names on their jerseys. We panted up the first hill at Haute de Cote, then Norman disappeared ahead of me, flat over his handlebars, on the first descent. The majestic Pyrenean purple mountain chain appeared on our right in the distance, still some 20 miles away, a reminder of the delights to come!

Then the long, winding curves before Mauvezan. You could safely let rip here, rounding the hairpins at speed. Past the monastery at the bottom, then the first real climb - the fourth category Cote de Mauvazin. The speeding hoard slowed to chugging pace, realizing the need to save strength for the mountains ahead. A sign before the bend told you were at the summit. Rather false information - there were a couple of miles of gentler climb before the real summit of 400 meters!

On the next stretch, Dave later told me that he had raced at 30mph, finding himself leading a high speed bunch! But then he is a category three racer. Such is the Etape du Tour! The trick is to find a bunch going at the right speed for you - in my case nearer 20mph that 30mph. You don't have to worry about doing your share of the work - people will slipstream you anyway!

I was delighted to catch Andy from Didcot Phoenix, one of the faster riders, recognizing his dossard number 5555. He went on to complete the course in around 6.5 hours

I lost a group travelling at just the right speed just before the first feeding stop at Sarancolin at 40 miles, when my new mini pump fell off. The last I heard of Norman was the ring of his bell (he must be unique!) as he pulled into the feeding stop. Having studiously carbo loaded on the days before, and eaten breakfast till I could eat no more, I chanced it and gained precious minutes by missing the feeding stop.

Then the climbs. Three enormous mountains in quick succe ssion. Col de Aspin at 1490 meters, followed by Col de Tourmalet at 2115 meters and finally Luz Ardiden at 1715 meters, with no flat sections between them. And gradients mainly averaging around 9.5%!

Aspin is not too bad. The climb, 13km long and averaging 6.2%, is quite scenic, and is pleasantly wooded. The views down to Arreau at the bottom is pleasant, and the gradients are mainly not too excessive. I must admit to wishing the café near the top had been open , but perhaps it was as well that it wasn't, as I might have lost a precious 10 minutes there drinking coffee! Aspin is the real first test, and it certainly proved too much for some riders, who decided to retire after Aspin.

The descent from Aspin is not too frightening, the succession of hairpin bends through woodland making for a fairly pleasant ride, though it was long enough for me to be glad when I reached the valley, with its applauding crowds of spectators. Now for the serious stuff.

The lower slopes of Tourmalet were deceptively gentle. A jazz band cheered us on our way, as did a chanting group of enchanting girls. The sun was out. The temperature had crept up from 17 degrees to 23 degrees. I was beginning to enjoy myself.

After the first few miles the gradient increased to nearly 10% for mile after mile. This was as expected. The section I dreaded was the 12% section just before Le Mongie, where the road passes under avalanche shelters. I set my mind firmly on the feeding stop at Le Mongie. For a while I cycled with New Zelander, chatting to him as we climbed. He had done the strictly forbidden thing of joining in without registering, though he was only planning to climb Tourmalet. I don't know if the gendarmes challenged him later! He had applied for the Etape too late, but had nevertheless ridden down from Cherbourg accompanied by his wife, and so did not intend to go back without a decent climb!

The gradient reached 12% as promised, presenting quite a struggle after 14km of continuous climbing.

The feeding stop was very welcome, but were complete chaos as thousands of cyclists grabbed as much free food as they could eat, and rested before the final assault on the summit. It was there that I was surprised I had caught up with Mark Pardoe of Reading Cycling Club. He had recently done a 12 hour time trial, averaging over 20mph!

After a rather extended rest, it was onwards and upwards to the summit. I was beginning to slow now, and was finding the going tough. We were above the tree line, and judging by the ski lifts, we were above the snow line in winter at least.

Finally, after 18Km and over 4000 feet of climb, as we rounded the peak we were greeted by rain and an icy blast of wind. Tourmalet does not have a flat bit on top. As soon as you reach the top it plunges downwards!

Now for the bit I was dreading most - the initial gradient is 15% with poor road surfaces and wet roads and sheer drops. Fortunately the visibility was good. It was 8mph round the first hairpin then 16mph for the rest of the way! There were very few fast descenders in such poor conditions. The temperature had dropped to 7 degrees, and my hands were going numb in the cold. Fortunately, I still somehow managed to operate the brake levers! Many people stopped to warm up two or three times on the way down. Many of the later riders retreated to the café at the bottom of Tourmalet, presumably to wait for the broom wagon.

To arrive at Luz St Saveur at the foot of Tourmalet was a joy. There was now a large crowd of spectators, and it was relatively warm! I was still actually looking forwards to a bit of climbing to warm up!

It had been reported that the climb up to Luz Ardiden became easy after the first few km. Unfortunately, this was not true. The overall average gradient is 9.4% for 11km. After an initial gentle section, the gradient hovered around 12 - 14% for long stretches. It felt as though time had stopped, and that you would never get to the top. 7km to go! Proclaimed the sign. What - 7km of 12% !!!

A final sprint over the finish line was greeted with "too fast - we could not record you". I then retreated to the warmth of the café. I was not the first or the last in our team - and we all made it!

Eventually, 5200 of the 6200 competitors did arrive, having cycled 90 miles and ascended 13,000 feet vertically. Those at the front rode the Etape in times rivaling those of Lance Armstrong and his crew, but the rest of us were just glad to get there at all!

It was interesting to compare notes afterwards with other competitors. The riders at the front were lucky with the weather, and were spared the rain. They had been able to descend Tourmalet at speeds of 40 - 50mph. On the other hand, the slowest riders were battered by hail on the descent of Tourmalet. Those that had reached the end of the ride had shown incredible endurance.

The official Tour de France completed exactly the same route on the following Sunday in temperatures of 30 degrees!